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Alice Veeder’s Quahog Chowder
 
Leslie Borden, September 2002
Alice Veeder’s Quahog Chowder as Adapted by her Son Rob
Rob’s mother made this chowder for me the first time I went to Cape Cod to meet the family, and it was as welcoming as she was.  Fish chowder is fine stuff, but I prefer the quahog version.
Note about quahogs:  It’s pronounced “ko-hog.”  It’s the Indian word for the hardshell, or chowder clams, specifically the big ones, which can be as big as your fist.  Littlenecks and cherrystones are also quahogs, but smaller, and are the ones that can be eaten raw.  These are all to be distinguished from soft shell clams, or steamers, which are the ones that are fried (with the gooshy bellies on them, yum) or steamed.  Oh, and about the chopped clams that you see either canned or sometimes at the fish counter, they are from surf clams, yet a different bivalve and frankly, they don’t have a lot of taste.  Surf clams are also the source of the Howard Johnson-type fried clam strips.  See comment above about taste.
This is Rob’s adaptation of his mother’s recipe – I’ve provided hers, word for word, with my notes from watching Rob make it below.
• 3 c. water
• I think Rob just uses the juice from the quahogs.  If you need more than what the quahogs throw off, you could use commercial clam juice, but taste carefully, because that stuff is massively salty.
• 1 quart shucked quahogs
• This means starting with a big bucket of quahogs in the shell.  See below about shucking, or opening, them.
• 2 c. ½“ diced raw potatoes
• Waxy ones, rather than floury bakers.
• 3 large onions, chopped
• ¼ lb. diced salt pork
• Bacon in a pinch, but oh, we do like that salt pork.
• 1 large can evaporated milk
• No kidding, this is the key.  
• 2 cups milk
• Rob uses just the evaporated milk, and more of it, to account for the total, two or three cans, depending on how many quahogs he’s got.
• Common crackers toasted with a dab of butter
• This is for garnish; Rob uses chopped cilantro instead.
• Salt and pepper to taste

• To open the clams, either put them on a rimmed baking sheet or in a roasting pan and place in a 350° oven until they open – this works for the very big ones – or, if they are smaller, put them in a big pot and turn on the heat to steam them until they open.  This will take longer than it does for mussels, as quahogs are pretty tough guys.  Rob’s mother also used, on occasion, to freeze the whole unshucked clams, which makes them relax enough that you can open them.  
• Whatever method you use, save the beautiful clam liquid, because it’ll be part of the essence of the chowder.
• Chop the clams relatively finely and set aside.
• Try out the salt pork, i.e., sauté it until it gets crispy and throws off its fat.  Drain the crispy bits on a paper towel and set them aside (they make a nice little snack while you’re cooking, by the way).
• Sauté the onion in the pork fat until just golden browned.  Add the potatoes and the reserved clam juice, and water or more clam juice if you don’t have enough to make a soup and boil the potatoes in.  Boil the potatoes until they are just tender.
• At this point, if there’s time, Rob likes to let the chowder sit, as long as overnight (in the refrigerator) and marry its flavors.  If there’s not, that’s OK, too.  
• When ready to serve, add the reserved chopped clams and heat to a boil.  Then add the evaporated milk and heat just to a simmer.  Don’t let it boil, or it’ll curdle.  It’ll still taste OK, but it won’t look silky and nice.  The only time Rob’s mother ever yelled at me was when I let some chowder boil and separate – and I deserved it.
Serve it garnished with the pork cracklings and either the common crackers or the chopped cilantro.
Served in cups, this makes a nice starter for a shore dinner:  you could follow it with grilled swordfish or lobster or stuffed bluefish, a salad, and corn on the cob.
Served in bowls, it’s a lunch or light supper, along with a piece of bread and some nice salad.
I think of Rob’s mother every single time I eat this beautiful chowder.